MX5 NB e' un' auto molto robusta il cui problema principale e' la corrosione. Alcune noie come perdite di olio sopratutto con il 1.8 o gli alzavhtri elettrici che divengono lentissimi sono abbastanza conosciuti. Per il resto bisogna sempre tener conto che la capote ad un certo punto va sostituita.
Io ho avuto una NB 1.8iS per cinque anni e la ricordo ancora con entusiasmo, nonostante ora abbia una Abarth 124 che ne e' la versione più' figa ed al testosterone. Come auto non posso che consigliarla.
Tra le alternative le uniche che considererei sono:
MR2 se volessi imparare ad usare in ista una vettura a motore centrale
Z3 emplacement perché sicuramente e' piu' bella ed ha piu' fascino di una MX5 (ma i costi salgono).
Le altre auto citate nel topic mi mettono semplicemente i brividi ?
Di seguito incollo una tabella con le problematiche principali relative a NA ed NB (in inglese)
Fonte:
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.aspetta?t=803271
Common faults
Part
Description
Related models
Brake Calipers
Brake callipers are known to seize on. Re-con parts are readily available. (Note I've just rebuilt a set of fronts, cost to refurb aprx £60, for all parts plus fluid. cost of re-con 'exchange' calipers likely to be £150+. SH) Rears are a "weak point" - the handbrake linkage gathers crap and mud over time and can stick, good practice to give the linkage a clean and spray with oil when you have the back wheels off
MK 1, 2 and 2.5 comes on with age
Corrosion
MK1 and MK2 models are quite poor in this area. In fact, it's the biggest MX5 killer. Watch out for rear sill sections, rear wheel arches and front chassis rails near front subframe mounting. The Mk2 and 2.5's are much worse in regards to front chassis rails - http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.aspetta?h=0&a... Don't be fooled into thinking an import will be better in this area as most of these are now 10+ years old
All MK1 and 2. Rust perforation in the sills has been known on 5 year old cars
Elec. Windows Slow
Electric windows get slow and stick over time, if they still go up and down fully the runners just need dousing in silicone spray grease from halfords or white lithium grease. Benefit for lithium is it wouldn't cause electrical problems if any gets on the electrics, benefit of silicone is not causing any rubber to swell.
MK1 and older MK2 models
Windows Stuck
On older cars the electric windows can sometimes start stopping going fully down. This is normally due to the clip holding the cable breaking. This can be fixed with a ziptie pulling the cable out of the way. Link with video here: http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=479201&...
MK1 and MK2
Oil Leaks
The o-ring on the CAS sensor on the back on the cylinder head can perish and start to leak. On 1.8 cars the oil will drip onto the coolant feed pipes for the heater matrix, eventually making them burst. Also the Cam-Cover-Gasket can start to weep oil, usually if not replaced when doing the cambelt. both are DIY jobs to replace with a bit of care. How-to guide: http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/forum/forums/p/308/494.aspx...
MK1
Clutch Slave Cylinder
The slave cylinder can sometimes fail and the clutch pedal will sink to the floor. A replacement unit can be had for around £30 and can be fitted in around half an hour. How to guide here: http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/forum/forums/p/200/361.aspx...
Mk1 and Mk2
Wet boot
Often caused by a perished rain rail which is the plastic channel that sandwiches the lower edge of the hood and guides water to the drain holes. Replacements can either be fabricated at home or bought from specialist websites. Fitting takes around half an hour
Mk1
Water in sills
Drain holes can become blocked, trapping water inside the sills. 5 minutes spent clearing the drains with a wire coathanger should fix it
Mk1 and Mk2
Transmission tunnel gets warm
This can get quite noticeable and can sometimes be remedied by changing the rubber turret boot that sits under the centre console. Over time these can perish and allow heat from the drivetrain into the cabin. Simple and cheap to fix.
Mk1 and Mk2
Noisey tappets
There is often noticeable tappet noise when starting up. Perfectly nomal for this to last a few minutes, but investigate further if it persists. An oil change is often all that's needed, although it could indicate worn or damaged HLAs. (Note - after multiple oil changes with semi-synthetic I was still getting HLA noise when hot. Changed to Mobil 1 fully synthetic and problem has completely disappeared - this is on a higher mileage Mk1 1.8. SH)
Mk1
no tickover when warming up
Change the green temp sensor at the rear of the engine block
Mk1
Wing mirrors falling off
Dismantle and replace bolt/nut that fixes mirror to the door. http://www.autolinkmx5.com/door-mirror-repair-bolt...
Mk1
Idle droop
Idle rate drops very low when in neutral, this can occur after disconnecting the battery. How-to reset guide: http://www.miata.net/garage/isc.html
Mk1
Misfire
Quite common for HT leads to go faulty particularly the shortest it seems(cheap option). Or it could be the coil pack. (More expensive)
Mk1 / MK2
Steering
Corroded power steering pipes, down on the rack
all MK1 and MK2 models with power steering.
Hood
Header rail catches can wear, losing their latching function.
all MK1 and MK2
Crankshaft
Key and keyway locating bottom cambelt pulley can wear. Check that pulley doesn't "shimmy" when engine is running.
some 1.6 MK1 theoretically only on 1.8 if botched maintenance
Transmission
Spigot and clutch-release bearings can develop a whine while clutch is engaged.
all MK1 and MK2
Cambelt whine
An overtightened timing belt can make a loud whine.
all MK1 and MK2